Providence, RI: The big cheese in the Ocean State
"Gin was mother's milk to her," Eliza Dolittle says of her late aunt. If gin is your idea of dairy (rather than, say, cheese) you might not appreciate what's on offer at the enchanting Providence restaurant La Laiterie — but just about anyone else will.
Whenever possible (and that's most of the time), they use local, seasonal, artisanal ingredients. That's a familiar enough drill. Chef-owners Matt and Kate Jennings, though, have become a must-eat in Providence because of their gently relentless commitment to not just great ingredients (crucial) but also equally careful handling. End result: endlessly delicious new American dishes.
It's dinner only at La Laiterie; if you want to get a taste of what they do earlier in the day, check out lunch at Farmstead or Farmstead Downcity.
Several times this summer, they're sponsoring Summer Tastings Under the Stars: food and wine pairings served on the roof deck of the Peerless Building in Downcity, Providence.
Lunch, dinner, wine tastings. Even that may not be enough.