Osteria Alle Testiere

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Osteria Alle Testiere
Calle del Mondo Novo

Venice, Italy
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Tel: 041.5227220
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Venice, Italy: Eating well in Venice—it can be done

Osteria Alle Testiere

Yes, you can throw a dart at a random restaurant in Italy and eat gloriously well. In Venice, though, not so much. Among the city's ineffable mysteries is why the food in Venice has never been particularly good.

That's not to say you can't eat well, with some advance work. You'll need it to get into Osteria Alle Testiere since it's got just two dozen seats and some of the best food in these parts.

Their focus is seafood, handled both correctly and imaginatively, using herbs and spices with a fine Italian hand. Gnocchi with baby squid is a must-try as is the local variation of shrimp scampi, though you can't go far wrong in any direction. (Except to find the place: the usual Venice difficulty).

Cheese plates are not part of Venice food culture (such as it is) but you can get an excellent one here. And the wine list is carefully chosen. Service is convivial and the final bill, while not small, is surely excellent value for a meal of this quality and an experience with this much pleasure.

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